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From: Ivan Voras <ivoras@freebsd.org>
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Subject: ZFS how to find out if ZIL is currently enabled?
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Grepping for "zil" in sysctls doesn't give anything useful:

# sysctl -a | grep zil
vfs.zfs.zil_replay_disable: 0

(its description is "Disable intent logging replay" so it looks like a
crash recovery option)

... so is there a way to find out if ZIL is enabled?

I can look at kenv but for some reason I can't trust its value right now.